Everything you must know to choose the right men’s shirt
The final guide to wearing a shirt by MAN 1924
Article: Jorge Navares / Photography: Olga Castillo
A shirt is an absolutely essential piece in every wardrobe. But, how much do you know about men’s formal shirts? We all know they must fit our shape properly so we feel we look good. But there are many variations to this essential piece in any wardrobe. Number of pockets, types of collars, front placket, yoke, cuffs… Countless variations that make this apparently simple garment more complex.
Types of shirt collars. Which is the one for you?
In MAN 1924 we have chosen 3 types of collars for this Spring / Summer 2020 collection.
English collar shirt
The English collar is the most traditional collar in tailor shops. Something very logical if we take into account that traditional tailoring was born in England.
To be more specific in the definition, the MAN 1924 English collar would be the evolution of the Windsor collar.
The Windsor collar, also known as the cutaway collar, was originally designed to combine with the wide Windsor knot that the Duke of Windsor made popular. Today, it is one of the essential elements in the contemporary design of shirts.
This collar is characterized by its refined points that are angled outward rather than downward and the wide extension between the neck points. However, the distance and length may vary from one tailor to another.
This type of collar is perfect to be used with a suit, as it is taller than the more informal shirt collars.
The English collar shirts may be perfectly worn with a tie. In the case of MAN 1924 we choose very thin insides of collars, called fisellines, for a multipurpose use. With or without a tie.
Button Down or Oxford shirt
The Button Down and Oxford shirts are those with buttons on the collars, hence their name. The origin of this shirt goes back to 1869 in England. Polo players are said to have required this, as the collars of their shirts flapped too much when they were horse riding, so two buttons were placed to prevent the collar from flapping in the wind and reducing their visibility.
Later it would become a fashion item thanks to John E. Brooks, having become one of the most popular items for men worldwide.
It is doubtless a timeless piece, that works with a wide range of dress codes, both formal and informal, with the collar buttoned or not, with the tips folded or buttoned.. there are many ways to wear it, it will all depend on your style and what the occasion requires.
It is a versatile shirt, perfect for wearing with a suit and tie, but also with Tomi trousers or a regular fit jacket such as our Kennedy jacket.
What you will have to bear in mind above all is considering the final look, for example, what colours work with what kind of jacket.
Mao or Band collar shirt
Mao collar is one of MAN 1924’s strong bets for this Spring / Summer. Of oriental inspiration, as its name suggests, it is a short, unfolded stand-up open neckline.
Perfect for your smartest casual look, for wearing with a Kennedy suit or even for a bridegroom on his wedding day. This type of Mao collar shirt gives bridegrooms a more bohemian aspect.
Mao collar shirts must not be used with a tie and the collar might be completely closed or have an opening in the middle. In our case, the Mao shirt designed by MAN 1924 has also a front bib, reminiscent of the shirts worn by our great-grandfathers.
Shirts according to the types of fabric
The fabrics we have selected for our MAN 1924 Spring / Summer collection are cotton and linen. Breathable, versatile and comfortable fabrics, perfect for this season.
Based on these fabrics, we can distinguish two types of structures:
100% Linen Madras
Madras is a lightweight cotton fabric with a typically patterned structure and a plaid design, used basically for summer clothing and native to India.
In this case it is not an authentic Madras, but we have named it so because of the similarity with the original. Our Madras shirts are made with a delavé linen thread that provides a faded appearance.
The MAN 1924 Madras shirts are perfect to combine with the Tomi Poplin trousers or the gray Tomi wool pants if you want to give it a more elegant touch.
100% Dyed Linen
This is the case of our Mao shirts, where the dye of the piece and especially of the yarn, makes the shirt more casual and summery.
100% striped cotton
In this case we have selected two types of cotton. One of them is striped, and its fabric has been pre-washed before cutting, providing the shirt with a very pleasant touch and freshness for the summer.
Piqué or Marcella
To conclude we have added two fabrics in piqué, or also called Marcella, with Mao collar which, decontextualized from its original character, formal shirts, we really like for the summer.
How to buy a shirt online. What measurements must I take and how?
When we buy a shirt online many doubts arise. Each brand and tailor have their own peculiarities and although there will always be a size guide available we want to offer you some advice.
The first recommendation… Do not try to measure yourself as if you were a tailor. It is preferable to choose a shirt that suits you well and you feel really comfortable with from your wardrobe.
Then put it on a smooth surface such as a table or on the bed and from there take the following measurements:
- button to the middle of the buttonhole.
- Chest. Re-fasten the shirt and place it face up, measure the distance between the armholes (armpits) taking as a reference the bottom part of the sleeve and multiply it by 2.
- Waist. Do the same as with the chest but this time, you must measure the half between the last button and the button before last and multiply it by 2.
- Sleeve. Without stretching the sleeve, leaving it naturally spread, measure from the seam where the shoulder ends and the sleeve begins to the end, including the cuff.
- Back length. Put the shirt face down and measure from the end of the neckline (not including it) to the bottom.